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De Valk Windmill - Leiden |
Sweet relief. As I
walked around Leiden running errands for my upcoming guests in knee high boots,
jacket, and a scarf on July 18th, I ran into a friend of mine who
reiterated what V’s coworkers had been telling him all week: The weather is about to get better. I know little about jet streams, but I’m
learning. Apparently, the typical jet
stream in Europe during the summer months rests north of the UK, pushing the
cold weather and accompanying depression and grumpiness into the North Pole (only
Elves could maintain a cheerful demeanor all year long in this weather). Summer
2012 thus far, had the jet stream resting in France, which led to wet and cold
weather amongst most of Europe which resulted in threats between husbands and
wives to throw in the towel and move family back to the US where summer = warmth
because said wife could just not take it anymore (hypothetically, of course). But lucky for all of us (my husband’s
employer included) the beautiful, wonderful jet stream moved and with it,
clouds of doubt and frustration.
As we neared the
‘summer’ my daughter’s classmates’ parents started to small talk with me,
asking me where I planned to ‘holiday’ during the ‘summer’ months. I felt immense pressure to answer them accurately,
but as usual, I was completely confused by the question and thus, had no
correct answer. I flashed my
well-practiced “I-wish-I-knew-what-you-were-talking about-smile” while my mind
processed the simple inquiry. (What the
what? Holiday? In
July? Heck no we’re not taking a month-long vacation to, well, anywhere, but especially not back to
Texas right now when it has the potential to be 115 degrees Fahrenheit, but
what’s that you say? What do you mean
the entire country shuts down?) In my
defense, I had expected at least a small number of people to go on vacation for
a month because on previous July visits to The Netherlands, V and I were never
able to see all his family, as their holiday vacation plans were staggered
throughout the month. However, in my
mind, I had likened the entire summer vacation to be simply a myth, like how
people don’t have to go to work on President’s Day in America: you know those people exist but you
personally have little to no experience with the seemingly fictional day off
from the office. Luckily, my husband had
gotten clued into this cultural standard at work a few months back, when his
co-workers were inquiring about his holiday plans for scheduling purposes. “You mean, if I don’t take off in July or August, I will be the only one in the
office?” he asked a colleague. “Yes,” he
replied. “Yes, you will.” So, not to be left out, we decided to play along
and planned for V to take a week off, mid-July, and have a true “Staycation”. The
goal was to devote an entire week traveling to different nearby locations to explore
our own backyard.
One of the first things I purchased and have spent months
appreciating is the Dutch Museumkaart (Museum Card). For only 49.95 Euros (approximately $61.00)
you can purchase a Museum Card which will give you unlimited access to nearly
400 museums all around The Netherlands for an entire
year. Considering one entry
into the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh museum will cost you about 25 Euros,
this is a fantastically good deal. But
beyond the accountant-budgeting-cost-benefit-analysis side of my personality,
it also speaks volumes of practicality as a mama – I can just pop into say, the
Natural History museum, which is only a 10 minute walk from our house, and we
are met eye-to-eye with a
taxidermist’s dream, complete with an abundance of previously
living stuffed animals gathered together in a formation nothing more elaborate
than a standing-room only concert at The House of Blues. I suppose a little
fake grass, much less a few displays at least attempting to depict animals in a
‘natural habitat’ wasn’t what they had in mind, but either way, depending on
the mood, hunger, sleep schedules, just general-stars-aligning-with-the-cosmos-affecting-my-children’s-moods,
we can stay for an hour and a half, or 20 minutes, then try it all again the
next week without additional entrance fees.
On Wednesdays when my 2-year old daughter is in school all day, my son
and I will often check out the other various museums around Leiden for a few
hours in the afternoon. I once decided
to be adventurous and visited the
Boerhaave
Museum, named after the famous
Dutch botanist and physician who taught at
Leiden
University in the 1600s. The further I explore Europe, the more I have
encountered museums which, while extensive efforts have been made to made the
ancient buildings more wheelchair/stroller accessible, the practicality of
those renovations still may cause frustration in order to help preserve the
originality of the place which houses the collection. The Boerhaave museum fit nicely into this
category and after half an hour of struggling with the layout of the museum and
trying to find the ‘lift’ I leave, noting that science was never my favorite
subject in school, anyway. As I pushed
the stroller past the friendly museum attendant who had greeted me a mere 25
minutes earlier, I
did appreciate
the fact that the building was older than my
home country and had
originally been a ‘plague hospital and madhouse’ before becoming a University
hospital in 1635. Museumkaart in hand,
my baby and I rolled along the Oude Singel canal to my favorite museum in
town - The Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) - where we could view Rembrandt paintings
while listening to
Gregorian chant music.
We purchased my husband
his own Museumkaart at the beginning of our “Staycation” week and started to
map out and plan our itinerary. It was a
fun process and with the sun shining everyday
and temperatures in the 80s, we couldn’t have picked a better week. We learned a lot and here were our top
adventures:
Makes-Your-Hands-Sweat-But-Best-View-Of-Leiden-Museum: There are a few words I think my daughter
would not use on a daily basis had we stayed in Texas. #1 is Windmill (to be followed by canals,
umbrella-lle-llas, raining, mittens, tunnel, fiets (the Dutch word for bikes)
and Lekker! (the Dutch word for yummy?)
For the past 6 months, we’ve been passing the De Valk windmill on our
way to the market and library – it was about time we’d show her the inner
workings. We strapped her to my back and
parked the baby’s stroller at the base of the windmill (No elevator at all
here) and my husband carried him in his arms.
We toured the kitchen and living areas of the family who operated the
windmill hundreds of years ago, viewed a video explaining the different types
of windmills and history (they originated in the Middle East), then climbed the
steep stairs. The museum, in and of
itself, was a fabulous explanation of the history, operations, and purpose
behind the windmills in The Netherlands.
We were able to grasp the big concepts and step out onto the platform
waving to the boats lazily sailing down the canal below. After smiling at the closeness of the
windmill’s fans and etching the amazement of my daughter’s face in my mind, we painstakingly
and nervously followed the museum’s path and carried our children down ladders
similar to the ones found in homes in Texas
leading into our attics, but even steeper and three times as long. This was so
not safe but yet, this is Europe and it’s how it
goes.
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Cheese Market Auction - Alkmaar |
Makes-V’s-Co-Workers-Laugh-At-Him-And-Explain-That’s-Only-For-Tourists: Alkmaar – “It Doesn’t Get More Cheesy Than
This,” my Netherlands Guidebook says, but yet. . . we packed the kids and the
car for the hour-long trip to Alkmaar to witness the Cheese market re-enactment
which is held every Friday morning. I
still can’t say what exactly went
on, as we approached the market in the midst of the announcer asking “does
anyone speak Spanish” and 10 or so tourists raised their
hands. I can honestly say (with head
hung, perhaps?) that I probably understood as much of the Spanish commentary as
the Dutch – Queso! Kaas! But there were men running around in ‘teams’
complete with heavy loads of cheese wheels (or children, if the photo-taking
parents obliged) around the small square.
Afterwards, we experienced the quaint, but informative Cheese
Museum adjacent to the square.
(Complete with complimentary cheese sample upon arrival). It too, was very informative and we viewed
black and white 1920s footage of the process - milk from Haarlem
is transported to the cheese makers in Alkmaar, and eventually, the deals are
completed (with a funny slapping of hands) in the Leiden
market. I felt mildly a part of history,
even if it was cheesy.
Makes-Me-Want-To-Take-A-History-Class-to-Keep-Up-This-Information-I’m-Absorbing:
Dutch Resistance
Museum (Verzetsmuseum) – My first
international experience was a visit to Berlin
in 2002, when my sister was an exchange student for three months. She had been studying German and lived in Berlin
and I was fortunate enough to visit her during her stay. She took me to the Deutsches Historisches
Museum and to this day, I feel that
it is one of the best Historical museums I have ever visited, but the Dutch
Resistance Museum
is stiff competition. We are all
familiar with Anne Frank’s Diary and her personal story. My husband and I went to the Museum three
years ago when we visited Amsterdam
(it was just a block from our hotel) and it was, as expected, overwhelmingly
somber. The energy of the building still
resonates with an intensity that made my heart drop the instant we stepped
behind the secret door. The Dutch
Resistance Museum
was a fascinating account of the bigger picture – how World War II affected the
mass population of The Netherlands. The
museum was laid-out chronologically (like the museum in Berlin) with videos,
personal accounts (in both Dutch and English), interactive displays, great
lighting, intriguing artifacts presented in interesting and unexpected displays,
and wall-sized photographs of the Dutch rejoicing as the Allies drove their
tanks into Amsterdam. It was small
enough to really come away feeling like you saw and understood most everything
in one visit, which is a rarity considering we were still pushing one stroller
with us.
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Royal Delft Pottery Factory - Delft |
Makes-You-Walk-Slower-And-Enjoy-The-Beauty-Around-You-No-Wonder-Famous-Dutch-Painters-Are-From-Here: Delft
– A charming little town is famous for its tiny gorgeous canals, home of
Vermeer, and Delft Blue pottery. If
you’ve ever read or seen the movie Girl with the Pearl Earring, this is the
place. Every corner we turned was breathtaking on that
warm day. After dining at an outdoor
café in the town center between the town hall and the Oude Kerk, we rounded off
our trip with a visit to the Royal Delft (De Porceleyne Fles), the only
original Delftware factory still operating since the 1650s.
Boring-drive-gives-Dallas-to-Lubbock-a-run-for-it’s-money-but-unfortunately-no-Allsups-to-break-up-the-montony: Venlo is about 2 hours from Leiden and near the Germany border. My husband has a client there and had forewarned me of the uneventful trip, but the Floriade World Horticulture Expo is currently being hosted in Venlo, which is an event only held every 10 years. We didn’t know what to expect when we arrived, but upon arrival, at least in my mind, it appeared to be a bit like Epcot, except it is for plants. There were five themed areas: Relax and Heal (that’s where we spent the most of our time – ha!), Green Engine, Education & Innovation, Environment, and World Show Stage. The last was quite like Epcot in that each country had a small area in which they created an informational display depicting the local horticulture of that country (whether it was a building with videos explaining olive and wine production, like
Spain or a re-creation of a peaceful garden of typical architectural style, like
China). The only difference was that countries such as
Afghanistan and
Pakistan were represented. I don’t think these two countries are at Epcot.
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Floriade Chinese Garden - Venlo |
So all in all, the “staycation” was a success, despite by
Day 2 at 10:00 a.m., V had already
worked 8 hours. (Unlike his Dallas
office which adequately compensated for such changes in schedules, I’m sure no
one even noticed.) So while the sunshine
abounded, our hopes lifted, our minds expanded and our sense of adventure
enlightened. We closed the week happy
and satisfied. On Friday afternoon, I still
wore the buttercup-yellow sundress which is really only appropriate for the
beach or a steamy LSU tailgate at the beginning of the season, as we walked
down our street towards the train station for a cup of coffee. On our way, we ran into a couple of my
daughter’s teachers on their way home from work. Although the sun had been shining brightly
that morning at the cheese market, the clouds started to roll in and the sky
darkened. They happily greeted us on the
sidewalk and we all agreed what a wonderful week it had been. They looked up at the graying sky and
exclaimed, “Well! Wasn’t that fantastic,
but now summer is over! I hope you
enjoyed it!” With a nervous giggle and a
sideways glance at my husband, I laughed along with them, not completely
understanding whether they were joking or not, but my husband and I, responded
with a confident, “We did! We had a
fabulous week!”